EURO TOUR: BULGARIA (VIA HOLLAND)

May 27 - 28: We left Brussels early Tuesday morning on the train bound for Amsterdam. Sadly, however, we were not destined to spend time in that low-lying city, or even to step foot in it; we were, in fact, simply taking the train to Schipol Airport, Amsterdam's main city air terminal, on our way to Sofia.

The train ride was typically European and we saw lots of Euro cows flash past. When we arrived several hours later at Schipol airport, we were already exhausted, but then we were on a slight to Sofia.

Sofia was by far the most different European city we visited. It history as a former Soviet country was evident and in comparison to the wealth EU countries we had just visited it was clearly less developed and poorer. But there was also a certain character in this suggested neglect. Unlike Vienna, Brussels and Berlin which were almost fairytale pretty and clean, Sofia felt a little more real.

After a short respite in our (very comfortable) hotel suite, we were taken to the Jewish community centre, situated (amazingly) in the centre of the city, opposite the famous historic Sofia Synagogue.

The Jewish community of Bulgaria made it through World War II relatively unscathed - a point about which it is very proud. It also explains why the synagogue stands unharmed.

David gave his talk to a group of around 30 people. It was tough-going for him because there was a woman sitting in the middle of the audience giving a simultaneous translation thorougth the lecture to a couple sitting next to her. It was also fairly clear that the overall level of understanding was not as high in this audience. Having said that, those who seemed to understand properly appeared to enjoy the talk very much.

After the lecture we were taken on a short tour of the centre of town, which was really interesting. We also had a closer look at the city's natural spring fountains, where people come with big plastic bottles to fill. David tasted the water and then told me to saying "you'll find it surprising" - and it was: the water was hot! We didn't realise that Sofia was sitting on hit springs which its residents still gather to enjoy.

We were taken to the home of Rabbi and Rebbetzin Salomon for dinner. Their flat was at the top of a building which included the synagogue, a restaurant and a mikveh (still under construction). The restaurant is not yet fully operational, so we joined the family for dinner along with two visitors from the UK who were in Sofia on business and a couple of Israeli girls who are staying with the family. This was one of the nicest meals we had on the tour.